Issue no5 Lost

Welcome to Panorama: The Journal of Intelligent Travel‘s long awaited LOST, our fifth issue, which we are dedicating to the great traveller, Anthony Bourdain, whose recent passing has affected us all. We offer this issue in celebration of his storytelling. The word lost originates from the Old English losian, meaning to perish. While this collection features many narratives of loss, it also illuminates the journey to being found. We hope Bourdain is finding his way home.

With each issue of Panorama, we strive to bring something new to the travel genre. This time, forty-seven writers have gifted their best work to shed light on the way they experience place, light, weather, shadow, birth, grief, streets, maps, stars, sex, love, and grace, all through the lens of travel. We’re delighted to introduce several new sections: VONATravels focuses exclusively on emerging voices of color; Psychogeography asks us to take a different kind of journey; and Books explores travel through the perspective of the world’s great travel writers. We’ve also chosen three literary ambassadors for the year to write letters from their respective cities of Hong Kong, Nairobi, and Panjim.

LOST has so many gorgeous works, it’s hard to know where to begin. Richard Ali comes of age with a voyage inspired by the lack of Nigerians and Nigerian places in the magazines of his boyhood in his commentary, Nigerians Travel: Travel Beyond National Geographic. Madhushree Ghosh considers the impact of Bourdain on the way we view difference, food, and travel in The Essence of Bourdain.  Lola Akimade Akerstrom sets out to Greenland to follow in the footsteps of the great African explorer Tété-Michel Kpomassie, but ends up making her own trail in Going the Way of the Qivittoq.

Ernest White II goes deep in an interview with author Andrew Evans on travel writing, gender, identity, and why he likes taking the bus. Matthew Webb explores travelling through Post-Soviet landscapes with Russian photographer Max Sher. These, and many more travelogues, await you in the form of memoir, poetry, fiction, imagery, and cartography.

We give you LOST: one world, not one narrative.


Nigerians Travel: Travel Beyond National Geographic

Richard Ali


Richard Ali recounts his first experiences reading National Geographic as a boy in Nigeria.
‘There were a number of stories on “Africa”, which meant Kenya and Tanzania often than not, which I was grateful to read in the way one identifies with a bracket, even if those countries are twice the length of the United States away from me. Much later I would frame the question more brutally:
If my experience counts, why has it not been written about?’


The Essence of Bourdain

Madhushree Ghosh


‘We loved his essence, the heady high he gave us by being original, by being truthful, by being vulnerable. He morphed into a travel writer with food as his vehicle. It was only natural for an essayist who was honest about his past as a hardcore drug user in the eighties, his failures in his twenties, his smoking addiction, his need to be on the edge of self-destruction, and his love for all things unknown. That was exciting to him. So it was exciting to us.’

Essence of Bourdain 2 e1533880468445


Triptych 5

One City, Three Ways: Ibadan

A Tour of Memories

Tope Salaudeen-Adegoke


You Must (Not!) Set Forth at Dawn

Olubunmi Familoni




Jennifer Zeynab Joukhadar


Atlases & Almanacs

Tina Zafreen Alam


Green Apples and Winter Strawberries

Jeongyre Choi

South Korea

Chokoza and Dead Things

Lydia Kasese



Dylan Brennan



Andrew Evans 2

In Conversation with Andrew Evans

Ernest White II


National Geographic travel writer and explorer Andrew Evans on his book The Black Penguin, why he travels, gender and identity, the need for multiple narratives, and taking the bus all the way to Antarctica.

‘When you think about travel, the way most people do it now is to try and control the experience, and I like the opposite. That was the whole point of this, to throw myself into whatever and be open to whatever. And sometimes that’s painful. Sometimes that means sleeping in a ditch overnight, or sitting next to a crazy felon, or whatever. But when you’re open to that, for me, that’s when the magic happens. That what this story is about.’

Hoja And His Shadow: Deconstructing Orhan Pamuk’s White Castle

Nicolas Sampson

United Kingdom

Orhan Pamuk’s The White Castle is his fictional travelogue masterpiece, starring a young Italian scholar who ends up in Istanbul, first as a prisoner of the Ottoman Empire, then as a slave, his fate coming to a surprising conclusion.

‘A tale of confused identity, self-reflection, and a world caught between two versions of itself. More than that, it’s a meditation on modern Turkish culture and its complex relation to the West, a cultural and psychological deliberation written in a way that evaded the censors of the day.’

A book to inspire your own imaginary journey.

Hoja and His Shadow 1


An Introduction to VONATRAVELS

Faith Adiele


Why we need to champion travelogues by writers of colour.


Mary Ann Thomas


The diaries of a queer brown cyclist journeying across India.


Going the Way of the Qivittoq

Going the Way of the Qivittoq

Lola Akimade Akerstrom


‘The tail end of April found me in Greenland because of a book by the first African ever to set foot on the world’s largest island in the sixties. Years before, I’d poured through Togo-born Tété-Michel Kpomassie’s book, An African in Greenland. Fascinated by his journey, I vowed to follow some of his footsteps and see those very icebergs that had captivated him over 50 years ago.  I had automatically assumed we shared the same lure of the unfamiliar, but as the squall wailed and groaned outside, reminding me who was boss, I realized what drew both Teté and I to Greenland weren’t one and the same.’

In Conversation with Max Sher

Matthew Webb


Russian photographer Max Sher talks about photographing archetypes of the post-Soviet built environment and recrafting the image of places in an effort to unexoticize them in his new book, Pamlipsests, a project that took him to five countries over seven years. A reflective conversation that invites us to see differently.

“My project is a critique of representation, rather than a critique of the Soviet project or of the new post-Soviet reality that emerged in its place. What I mean is, I would even dare calling it a decolonizing project but in the sense of decolonizing my own thinking and perception of the built environment I live in.”

Max Sher 1



Don’t Meet Me in St Louis

Samuel Autman


The life of an opera diva encourages a dreamer to see the world.

Finding My Way In the Night Sky

Siffy Torkildson


Celestial atlases and a telescope prompt a young woman to look up.


Psychogeographer 4


Richard Oduor Oduku


I live in a city of water – on shipping containers
where men sit on duka-fronts sipping ganja tea
& amphibious trucks sail downstream
tailgates streaking black paint on undulating ripples
& stoic farmers tail them, in papyrus rafts and hyacinth baskets
hawking coconut oil, dried fish, and spices along the khlong
on the quayside are bubble floats, bobbling
equidistant yellow threads – like Barnett Newman’s Onement, I
we paddle our dugout canoes to the embankments
& pay wharfage fees to the lady in a blue coat
on street corners artists sketch on shackled thieves.

Lost in an Empty Land

Kevan Manwaring

United Kingdom-Scotland

Lost and Found in St Margaret’s Hope

Laura Bissell

United Kingdom-Scotland


Tacos Arabes

Huda Al-Marashi


Finding connection and falafel in Guadalajara.

Losing, Lost, Finding, Found

Kerry Beth Neville


Letting go in the Atlas Mountains of Morocco.


Looking for Lorca

Steven Reese


‘And the anonymity of travel is a risk—the risk of feeling extreme loneliness, of feeling minuscule, of feeling not an expansion but a breakdown of identity.  This is especially true when we venture into territory where the language is not our own and we are standing, bewildered, in train stations wondering whether we will ever get out, wanting someone to take us by the hand and lead us to our car, our seat.  Furthermore, our “adventures” are apt not to be the stuff of Homer, but rather the more mundane events worthy of a postcard or of a journal entry—or of the Ulysses whom James Joyce portrayed, an average man struggling through the epic of a single day.’

Looking for Lorca

City of a Different Sunlight

Carolyne Whelan


La Parada

Kristin Vukovic


The Face of the Little Girl

Tolu Daniel


Getting to Darat Al Funun

Tanya Ward Goodman


The Princess and the Shipbuilder

Yolande House



Hong Kong

Letter from Hong Kong

Sa’diyya Nesar

Hong Kong


Letter from Panjim

Chryselle D’Silva Dias



Letter from Nairobi

Wanjeri Gakuru



Swallowed Things

Amara Okolo


Dressed For Eden

Stephen Frech



Becoming Pirate Mama: Rethinking Life As a Single Mom

Ky Delaney


Inspired by the story of pirate Anne Bonny, a young mother sets out to learn to sail with her young son, choosing a life of adventure for them both. ‘I wondered why I hadn’t heard stories like hers about single moms, ones that show our heroic strain. Somewhere deep in side a glimmer of possibility stirred where before I’d only felt despair. I imagined the adventures Tobin and I could experience, and for the first time in a long while, I allowed myself to daydream about creating a bold, watery life for Tobin and me. A month later, I enrolled in sailing classes in Anne’s hometown of Charleston, South Carolina.’

Becoming Pirate Mama 2

The Next Cross

TA Loeffler


The Third Raven

Carin Clevidence


The Light Between Worlds

Maka Monture



Buenos Aires, Argentina

Angela Lang


Finding the familiar in la Reina del Plata.

Parks Highway, Denali National Park, Alaska

Erica Watson


Sometimes the road itself is the destination.

Zagreb, Croatia

Anja Mutić


Rooted, but with bags packed.