Term: Austria

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The Prizewinner

I saw him again. At the new bookstore on Slavyanska St. Prizewinner! I wanted to shout. It’s me! It was the fifth time in the last...

Gascony

“You will discover a new way of life there,” a German friend said as Jeri and I prepared to set off from Heidelberg for France....

Budapest

If you want to know what history smells like, arrive in Budapest in June 1991: paprika and pastry, diesel fumes and a faint whiff of...

The Cheesemaker's Daughter

When I heard that Kristin Vuković was publishing a novel about a family of cheesemakers, and that the story had an international backdrop connected to...

Ascension

October 1998 – My feet trip on hardened ruts in the earth of the Albuquerque field, and I worry about the cameras dangling from my...

Idle Pleasures of Zoning Out

Remember James Thurber’s Walter Mitty? That timorous, awkward geezer who slips into a fantasyland, courts danger, and performs a series of heroic feats, while actually...

Duino Castle and Rainer Maria Rilke

I have never met you. How could I have? You died twenty-seven years before I was born. That is why I am at Duino Castle...

Crossing the Curtain

Edward parked his car with care. The Hofburg palace loomed to his right against a gray and star-less sky. A stray dog lifted its leg...

Don’t Meet Me in St Louis

In July 1961 Grace Bumbry strode onstage at the Bayreuth Festival. She was 24, and had earned positive reviews at a few major opera houses...

Flames and Shadows

‘I would like a coffee with milk and a sandwich with ham and cheese please.’ ‘Bitte?’ She stood there, pen and notepad in hand, her...

Twenty Years of Balkan Tangle

It was in the town of Shkodra, in northern Albania, that I first picked up the name Edith Durham. Strolling the streets in the dry...

“While not all of us may spend our lives travelling around the world, and some of us may not even leave the corners of our...