It was in the town of Shkodra, in northern Albania, that I first picked up the name Edith Durham. Strolling the streets in the dry...
Byron and Hobhouse in the Bernese Oberland
Lord Byron and John Cam Hobhouse were university chums. Hobby had been best man at Byron’s unlikely and short-lived wedding to Annabella Milbanke in 1815,...
Jesus, Uno, Kimchi Pizza
It was the start of a three-day Memorial Day weekend. I stood there leaning on the counter, watching my folks’ forest green Lincoln Continental pull...
Festa de São João
They tell me the banked fires on every street corner tonight reveal in smoke and tears the face of the one you are meant to...
Water-Gazers*
On the pier in the harbour of Guinea-Bissau on the coast of West Africa, where cashews are shipped, and cocaine arrives daily, they wait through...
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