Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: Revenir

Revenir Monica Anderson USA In Togo, a slice of a country just smaller than West Virginia on the West African coast, nobody says goodbye. Aller et retourner, go and come back, they say instead. Whether walking the quarter-mile length of a village to buy eggs from the...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: Guatemala

Guatemala Jonathon Engels USA It feels like someone has stubbed a cigarette out on my chest. It’s dark, the middle of the night. I’m in bed. And, it happens again. I grope at the burn, some understanding of what’s going on. Fire poker! Again. Again. “Something just...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: Homesickness

Homesickness Nancy Penrose USA I had a new nationality: citizen of the country of longing. Suketu Mehta  Had I ever been homesick? It was a fair question from my friend, Priscilla, as we sat in a Seattle coffee shop and talked about my lifetime of leaps between...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: Susanna’s Secrets

Susanna’s Secrets Priya Dileep India ​ “…an empty drawer is unimaginable. It can only be thought of.” — Gaston Bachelard [i] “We shall never reach the bottom of the casket.” — Jean-Pierre Richard [ii]   Auguste Rodin’s well-known bronze sculpture, The...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: Fruits of Summer

Fruits of Summer Och Gonzalez Philippines When the clusters of round green fruits peek out from under the broad leaves of the santol tree in our yard, I am filled with a sense of expectation. I know that the tree is turning soft like a woman easing into motherhood...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: Indifference to Gratitude

Indifference to Gratitude Tivara Tanudjaja Indonesia As Rob Dückers, our tour guide for the day at the Amsterdam Museum, explained the Dutch’s practical mindset of making money, I couldn’t help but feel nauseous and irritated. From the early 1600s, the Dutch had...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: Four Arisings

Four Arisings Nartana Premachandra USA Dawn: (noun) the first appearance of light in the sky before sunrise. Every story starts with the sun. The light illuminating the page you are reading began its journey over one-hundred thousand years ago. After it was created in...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: La Familia

La Familia Luke Dumas USA   Even before Andres asked if he could use my bed to have sex with a Turkish woman, I had the feeling our friendship was headed down a tenuous path. “Come on, man, pleeease,” he begged, as we rode the ski lift up the mountain. I...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: The Postcard from Venice

The Postcard from Venice Maria Wiesner Germany There is a kiosk on Lido island. You pass it when you step off the ferry from Venice and walk down the main road, which crosses this narrow piece of land protecting the laguna from the open sea. Every year, I’ve bought a...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: Remember the Dead

Remember the Dead Tricia Rummel USA “There are three deaths. The first is when the body ceases to function. The second is when the body is consigned to the grave. The third is that moment, sometime in the future, when your name is spoken for the last time.” 
― David...
Dawn: Revenir

Dawn: No Deep Roots

No Deep Roots Sara Ohlin USA I’ve done this before, I think. Maybe one too many times as my body denies the journey, tucked up in the front passenger seat of a car filled to the brim with the last few belongings that wouldn’t fit in the moving van, including two kids...
War & Peace: The Postcard

War & Peace: The Postcard

The Postcard Eva Lou USA I live at the base of the Eiffel Tower, my windows framing the symbol of France like borders of a postcard. Every night on the hour, the Eiffel Tower twinkles and a hundred fireflies descend upon our living room. We don’t keep a clock in the...
War & Peace: The Postcard

War & Peace: Fernweh

Fernweh Lori Arden USA The first week of my freshman year of college I found myself stumped by a question I had never been asked before. ‘Where are you from?’ The girl who asked me lived in my dorm and had just that weekend made the two hour drive up from Long Island,...
War & Peace: The Postcard

War & Peace: The Catalan Lottery Ticket

The Catalan Lottery Ticket Peter Wortsman USA It is February, 1974, a year before Generalissimo Franco’s demise. Things are tense in Barcelona. The angst is muffled by Catalan defiance and big city swagger, but evident all the same in the wary gaze of the locals. At...
War & Peace: The Postcard

War & Peace: There’s No Place

There’s No Place Jonathon Engels USA Emma says home is where I am, and I say that my home is where she is. Sometimes, we joke that the spot she nuzzles into me, below my right armpit, is a magical place called Inglenook. We got that from the name of a wine we shared...
War & Peace: The Postcard

War & Peace: Privilege

Privilege Molly Fisk USA It’s Saturday morning and I’m heading for the farmer’s market in my town, which is two miles from my house. From June through November, this is one of my rituals. I show up half an hour early to drink a latte at the adjacent...
War & Peace: Alone in Porto

War & Peace: Alone in Porto

Alone in Porto Alia Soliman Egypt Seagulls fly overhead, adding to the mystique of Porto, the second city of Portugal. From my balcony in Rua do Almada, a side street in the center of Porto equally occupied by visitors and locals, where I often watch an older man in...
Lost: October Beaches and the Palette of Days

Lost: October Beaches and the Palette of Days

October Beaches and the Palette of Days Philip Kobylarz USA Back in Marseille, it’s still possible to swim in the late reaches of October. The water, not being oceanic, stays warm, and like the temperature during a clear day, is most invitingly turgid at four in...
Lost: The Princess and the Shipbuilder

Lost: The Princess and the Shipbuilder

The Princess and the Shipbuilder Yolande House Thailand Walking up the three floors to my apartment, I notice a presence behind me. ‘Hello’, the man says in English. He’s drunk. I don’t know how I know that. Personal space in South Korea feels non-existent. The Asian...
Lost: Getting to Darat Al Funun

Lost: Getting to Darat Al Funun

Getting to Darat Al Funun Tanya Ward Goodman USA To get to Darat al Funun ask the concierge at your hotel to write the name in Arabic so that your taxi will drop you somewhere in the right neighbourhood. After getting out of the cab, ask directions from the first...
Lost: Looking for Lorca

Lost: Looking for Lorca

Looking for Lorca Steven Reese USA 1. In Spain, they are looking into neglected corners of the national psyche.  They are rummaging their collective memory, retelling their history, prying into wounds that have never healed.  They are looking for Lorca.  They are...
Lost: The Face of the Little Girl

Lost: The Face of the Little Girl

The Face of the Little Girl Tolu Daniel Nigeria On my way to work on Friday, 5th October, 2016, I used the rough path leading to the main road from my house on Quarry Road. I contended with a number of things, the dryness for one, as the wind encouraged dust to rise...
Lost: La Parada

Lost: La Parada

La Parada Kristin Vukovic USA Peach-hued clouds slash across the Mexican sky like a rip in a banner of grey-blue fabric as night falls. Hovering in the darkness, the illuminated cross on La Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel burns a bright white. Hollow bells resonate...
Lost: City of a Different Sunlight

Lost: City of a Different Sunlight

City of a Different Sunlight Carolyne Whelan USA Here is the spot on the highway towards Albuquerque, where I stood with my thumb out and my bike helmet held over my heart as in salute. I still love the open road. I hitchhiked for many years after this first time, but...
Seen: The Price of Redemption

Seen: The Price of Redemption

The Price of Redemption Kerra Bolton Mexico Guilt is an opinionated dream crusher with better stalking skills than a student loan bill collector. It caught me one January evening as I sat on the park bench in San Miguel de Allende. Smiling, I watched a mariachi band...
Seen: Riverside

Seen: Riverside

Riverside Marie Baleo France I walked down the ramp, to the edge of the river, and sat on the quay, my calves and feet dangling above the water. I looked around to find I was completely alone, an unusual sensation on a sunny afternoon in the city. The wall was...
Seen: High Hopes on the Cotswold Way

Seen: High Hopes on the Cotswold Way

High Hopes on the Cotswold Way Jennifer Richardson USA The plan was to quit my job then walk the Cotswold Way, a 102-mile path along a Jurassic-age escarpment in southwest England. Beyond that there was no plan, but part of me believed that, somewhere along the Way, I...
Seen: This is What it Sounds Like

Seen: This is What it Sounds Like

This is What it Sounds Like Lori A. May USA I touched a Beluga whale when I was twenty years old. My fingertips slid across its salt-kissed melon forehead that is understood to change shape as the whale produces sounds. While I gasped in my heart during our encounter,...
Seen: Leaving to Go Home

Seen: Leaving to Go Home

Leaving to Go Home Anis Ibrahim Malaysia I had just stepped into Malaysia. Thailand was behind me. The customs officer beamed and nodded, recognising immediately that I was a fellow Malaysian.  “Hello, dari mana?” he asked. Where had I come from? “Thailand, from...
Seen: Swimming with the Fishes

Seen: Swimming with the Fishes

Swimming with the Fishes Joelle Renstrom USA For whatever we lose (like a you or a me), It’s always our self we find in the sea. — e.e. Cummings ‘If you go to Caye Caulker, see Juni.’ The Australian woman whose name I never caught shouted this tip as she waved goodbye...
Seen: Mattituck 1980

Seen: Mattituck 1980

Mattituck 1980 Elizabeth Jaeger USA Boredom When I was four years old, my dad snapped his Achilles tendon playing volleyball at his company’s summer picnic. For two months, the best months of the year, he sat out back in the shade of our city house waiting to heal. He...
Seen: At the Edge of the Earth or its Centre

Seen: At the Edge of the Earth or its Centre

At the Edge of the Earth or its Centre Becca Borawski Jenkins USA Yesterday How many people have ever confronted an animal – not roadkill, not a beloved and ailing pet, but an animal – how many have looked an animal in the eye, killed it, and eaten it? Further, how...
Seen: In Flight: Her First American

Seen: In Flight: Her First American

In Flight: Her First American Eleni Gage USA I first noticed her in the Athens airport. I was sitting outside security, trying to finish a water bottle full of Airborne that wouldn’t be allowed onto the plane to New York, when I heard somebody laughing and crying at...
Seen: We May Never See Penguins

Seen: We May Never See Penguins

We May Never See Penguins Jonathan Engels Guatemala When I quit smoking the night before we left, it felt like a joke. My first attempt, in Korea, had been cutting down to five a day, ‘easing’ out of it. Nearly a decade had passed since. But, this time there was to be...
Open: Walking Budapest

Open: Walking Budapest

Walking Budapest Kristin Winet USA Eső után köpönyeg. — Hungarian expression for “after rain comes raincoat” Monday, Day One The First Glimpse When I think back to my trip to Budapest, I think, first, of her street signs. Hungarian street signs look...
Open: Hameen’s Wallet

Open: Hameen’s Wallet

Hameen’s Wallet Ania Payne USA The wallet’s leather folds wink beneath the shuffle of feet on Tottenham Court Road. Tired feet, anxious feet, melancholy feet, sweaty feet tromp around it, step on it, oblivious. An ant hobbles across its surface, and Lewis is the...
Open: Life Sentence

Open: Life Sentence

Life Sentence Steven Law USA The air was cold and still, a skin-tightening astringent kiss from mother nature welcoming me back. And nothing moved. The precedent stillness before the storm. Like God pausing to wrap a pull cord around a tornado. It gave me a buggy,...
Open: Moscow Hometown Blues

Open: Moscow Hometown Blues

Moscow Hometown Blues (In the Key of B) Jonathon Engels Guatemala The expansive breakfast buffet at the fancy-pants hotel helped in dismissing the fact that we’d been evicted the day before. While Emma used the free Wi-Fi to flitter between sites for what tourist...
Open: The Road on the Moss

Open: The Road on the Moss

The Road on the Moss David Frankel England There are some journeys that stay with you. They don’t need to be epic Himalayan treks or rainforest expeditions. I was 10 or 11 when I took my brother’s old bike, a decrepit racer with a worrying squeak, and set off to cross...
Open: Annaghmakerrig

Open: Annaghmakerrig

Annaghmakerrig: Where Art and Other Strange Things Happen Ken Robbins USA “At Hawthornden Castle, it’s Thomas,” the American poet said as talk of ghosts persisted, referring to the renovated 17th century castle in Scotland serving writers from around the world. “He...
Open: Ashes to Ashes

Open: Ashes to Ashes

Ashes to Ashes Joelle Renstrom USA Illustrated by Sophia Khan USA In the fourth grade, my teacher gave each student a vial of ash from the 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens in the state of Washington. The ash was a lighter colour than I expected—I had only seen ashes...
Open: Rules of the Northern Lights

Open: Rules of the Northern Lights

Rules of the Northern Lights Mary Ann Thomas USA I squat on the dirt road and widen my stance to avoid the inevitable splash of pee on hard earth. When I have a solid stream running, I look up. A beam of light, like a spotlight directing aimless crowds to the next...
Open: Bleed and Chase

Open: Bleed and Chase

Bleed and Chase Paul Currion Serbia Halfway through a six-hour journey through rural Bangladesh in 2007, I realised that I might be missing a piece of myself. We were going over spreadsheets, making phone calls, and preparing for the meeting we were travelling to; the...
Open: Northern Ignorance and Southern Evidence

Open: Northern Ignorance and Southern Evidence

Northern Ignorance and Southern Evidence Dave Harris USA Every time I go home to El Dorado, Arkansas, I can’t seem to fight the feeling that someone or something is trying to kill me. To reach El Dorado (pronounced “El Do-ray-da), one must fly to either Little Rock,...
Open: What You See

Open: What You See

What You See Nadia L. Hohn UAE I wore my Afrodelik Designs shirt by a Toronto-based designer Dezi Dee. It depicts the profile of a black woman, outlined in white on a black background, nude from the tummy up with a chain around her neck. I figured that this image...
Open: Alive Among Italy’s Dead

Open: Alive Among Italy’s Dead

Alive Among Italy’s Dead Katrina Woznicki USA Illustrated by Sophia Khan USA Less than 9km from Mount Vesuvius, near the entrance to Pompeii, a vendor sells bottles resembling penises. The corked bottles are red, white, blue, and yellow and painted with kissy...
Treasures: How to Plant Roots in the Sand

Treasures: How to Plant Roots in the Sand

How to Plant Roots in the Sand Sezin Koehler USA The thunder and lightning crash so hard around my home it knocks paintings from the wall and tchotchkes to the floor. A wall of rain smashes down so thick I can’t see the road just metres from my front door, nor the...
Treasures: Black Band, Blue Ribbon

Treasures: Black Band, Blue Ribbon

Black Band and Blue Ribbon Lori A. May USA I am surrounded by a few thousand strangers, yet they are my family. I adopted myself into this community of black and blue the day my spouse and I exchanged vows. I promised to love, honour, and cherish this man until death...
Treasures: Earthy Knowledge

Treasures: Earthy Knowledge

Earthy Knowledge Holly Dawson England Illustrated by Marta Munoz England It’s 1989, my brother’s fourth birthday. We all huddle together on Towan Beach, our backs against the autumn sea-gusts, and anoint him with headphones and a wired-up beeping stick. His present is...
Treasures: The Killing Tree

Treasures: The Killing Tree

The Killing Tree Adriana Paramo USA Illustrated by Marta Munoz England This is where you could have died when you were four. Your tiny body smashed against the tree trunk, your back bent into an impossible zigzag of broken bones, your ribs forced in all directions,...
Treasures: New York’s Unreal Estate

Treasures: New York’s Unreal Estate

New York’s Unreal Estate Peter Wortsman USA Illustrated by Marta Munoz England “There now is your insular city of the Manhattoes, belted round by wharves as Indian isles by coral reefs — commerce surrounds it with her surf.[…] Circumambulate the city of a dreamy...
Weekend Reading: Knowing my place

Weekend Reading: Knowing my place

Knowing my Place Cyril Dabydeen Canada The plane coming down, and sheer headiness is in me. I will now be on Canadian soil! The noise is overwhelming… we’re about to land at Pearson International in Toronto. I am here! But who am I? Not who are Canadians? A...
Weekend Reading: Right of Way

Weekend Reading: Right of Way

Right of Way Sarah Pascarella USA I look at the traffic, coming in droves from all sides: mopeds, taxis, pick-up trucks, and bicycles. The mopeds are the most impressive; some solely carry their driver, others are laden with flowers, food, cartons, ducks, hens, pigs,...
Weekend Reading: Twenty Years of Balkan Tangle

Weekend Reading: Twenty Years of Balkan Tangle

Twenty Years of Balkan Tangle: How a British Lady became Queen of the Albanian mountains Maria Wiesner Germany It was in the town of Shkodra, in northern Albania, that I first picked up the name Edith Durham. Strolling the streets in the dry midday sun, I was looking...
Weekend Reading: Bernese Oberland

Weekend Reading: Bernese Oberland

Byron and Hobhouse in the Bernese Oberland Padraig Rooney Switzerland Lord Byron and John Cam Hobhouse were university chums. Hobby had been best man at Byron’s unlikely and short-lived wedding to Annabella Milbanke in 1815, and had accompanied him on a gap year to...
Weekend Reading: Taal Lake

Weekend Reading: Taal Lake

Taal Lake and the Lagunzad Trail Sarge Lacuesta Philippines Dan Lagunzad was a botanist: he was built slim and thrumming, like a low, springy tree that was just a little bit taller than I was in college when I met him. I was not his student, but he and my professor —...
Weekend Reading: Mapping Firenze

Weekend Reading: Mapping Firenze

Mapping Firenze Mara Gorman USA The day I learned to travel was the first time I ever was truly lost. It was 1979 and I was nine years old. Surely, I thought as I sat timidly on the plastic seat, the bus driver wasn’t going to ignore two blonde girls. Every other...
Firsts: American revolutionary in Cuba

Firsts: American revolutionary in Cuba

An American revolutionary in Cuba Alden Jones USA   If anything has shaken me fully free from childhood desires to see the world as a concrete-mould, comprehensible place, a planet where all questions have answers, it has been the time I’ve spent in Cuba. If only...
Firsts: When I saw my mother

Firsts: When I saw my mother

When I saw my mother Heather Greenwood Davis Canada   Sometimes the people you need to meet are the ones you bring with you. When I saw her Hidden, in plain view My mother, the human being The she that I never saw Coming home to her Watching my mother uncoil When...
Firsts: Travelling home

Firsts: Travelling home

Travelling Home Paul McVeigh Northern Ireland   I’ve moved back to Belfast, Northern Ireland. I left the family home for good when I was 19, left my city then too and eventually Northern Ireland altogether at 25. I knew I’d never go back. 20 odd years later I’ve...
Firsts: Everything but the ranch

Firsts: Everything but the ranch

Everything but the ranch Ru Freeman USA   “You know what work is—if you’re old enough to read this you know what work is, although you may not do it” from What Work Is, by Philip Levine There’s a light that is particular to Chihuahuan desert of West Texas, to...
Firsts: A horror writer in Transylvania

Firsts: A horror writer in Transylvania

A horror writer in Transylvania Richard Thomas USA   Horror isn’t always what you think it is—it comes in many shapes and colours, and often when we least expect it. I hopped on a plane to Transylvania, over 5,000 miles away, to teach a horror writing workshop in...
Firsts: Dodging the dragons

Firsts: Dodging the dragons

Dodging the dragons: Impressions of a journey on the Karakoram Highway Shehla Anjum USA   Not long after it opened in the late 1980s, I journeyed the Karakoram Highway, through a region encased in amber, from northern Pakistan to Kashgar in far western China. The...